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Author Topic: Inside: photos of Victorian garment construction for your reference  (Read 859 times)
Attlebridge
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Canada Canada


Lady Lianna U. Nulls


« on: March 08, 2012, 12:30:09 am »

You may view my current photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/laslund/sets/72157629689296809/

Many more to come.  Grin

------

I have several authentic Victorian ladies' garments from the 1880's to early 1900's, and I have a friend who collects historical clothing and she also has a variety of Victorian dresses and unmentionables.

If there is a need for detailed photographs of construction and details, for the seamstresses among us, I would be happy to oblige. Please leave a comment and I will be sure to take photographs at the earliest opportunity.

As I am able to handle the garments freely, I can supply special requests that may not be available for reference elsewhere. I also have a Micro lens for my camera (used for insect photography and closeups) which will allow me to photograph the tiniest details clearly.

These are the types of items I have available to me, including my friend's items (dates are approximate):

- pantaloons (early 1900s)
- corset-cover (1890's)
- opera cape (1890-1910)
- simple day dress (1900-1910)
- walking dress (1880-1890)
- several house dresses with beading and ornamentation (1880's-1890's)
- mourning dress, black (1895-1905 with heavy lace)
- mourning dress top, purple (1885-1890)
- several corsets
- lace and embroidered inset samples (old stock, unused, 1880's-1930's... the mass-produced designs remained largely unchanged, so these are harder to date)
- small misc. accessories

If you would like reference photos of any of the above items, please state which ones, and of what specific details you are interested in (inset lace, boning, internal structure, etc). Smiley
« Last Edit: April 02, 2012, 04:37:51 pm by Attlebridge » Logged
SPBrewer
Zeppelin Overlord
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United States United States


Sky Pirate Brewer


« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2012, 02:24:38 am »

No Gentleman's garments?   Cry
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The Sky Pirate
Captain of the "Queen Victoria's Revenge"

Antipodean
Zeppelin Captain
*****
New Zealand New Zealand



« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2012, 10:57:24 am »

I personally would treat such photos and articles as precious. It is often the hidden construction and detail where people fall and struggle. I would have thought that there would be great interest outside of our community as well. Have you considered videoing the garments and techniques and putting them up on YouTube for posterity. Even if it has been done before the styles and techniques used could easily vary depending on cultural and materials used.
I am actually starting to collect such information for my personal “Off Line” Library. Just because there is site now does not mean it will still be there when I need it.
So if you have the time and inclination – “Yes Please” to any or all
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Professor J. Cogsworthy
Zeppelin Admiral
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Aude Aliquid Dignum


« Reply #3 on: March 08, 2012, 12:05:02 pm »

I'll answer for my wife....


YES! PLEASE!!!! LOTS OF PHOTOS!!!!


thanks in advance.
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queenofgoblins
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Peruser Of Tomes, Consumer Of Tea


« Reply #4 on: March 08, 2012, 01:11:53 pm »

I would certainly love to see any/all photos of construction as it would be of immense help on my course (textiles for fashion) as my Fashion studies tutor is more experienced with lower-maintenance garments.

I may on occasion nab a picture of two for use in my research if you would allow that (if they're relevant) obviously I would always make references to you perfectly clear and it would be for my references only, not submitted work.
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Attlebridge
Deck Hand
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Canada Canada


Lady Lianna U. Nulls


« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2012, 06:24:33 pm »

@SPBrewer - I personally do not own any gentlemens' garments, but I will check if my friend has any in her collection. Smiley

@ Everyone else;
Message recieved!  Grin
I shall get to work on taking many photos! These will most likely be uploaded to my flickr, and I shall let you all know when they are ready for viewing. It may take several weeks to complete photographing and editing the photos, but it shall be done!
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Attlebridge
Deck Hand
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Canada Canada


Lady Lianna U. Nulls


« Reply #6 on: March 28, 2012, 08:03:38 pm »

The first batch of reference photos have been added to my flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/laslund/sets/72157629689296809/

I have MANY more to photograph and edit. Smiley
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Professor J. Cogsworthy
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Aude Aliquid Dignum


« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2012, 08:05:50 pm »

thank you
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Kryss LaBryn
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aka Lady Amelia Cottington


« Reply #8 on: March 29, 2012, 05:34:20 am »

Thanks so much for these!

I have a question about the brown two-piece ensemble (Dress 2), as the shirt there is very similar to a jacket I have planned: Could you please explain what is happening with the pleats at the small of the back? From the outside it looks pretty straightforward, and as though it were put together the way I have planned (which is to basically flare each side of each piece below the waist out, to have a ruffle at the back (although mine will be longer)), but the pic of the inside of those pleats in Dress 2 06 confuses me. I can't make out what is going on. It looks like there's some sort of a flap in behind, anchored at the top, but open at the sides with a bunch of pleats there..? Could you please tell me what is happening there? I just can't figure it out.

Also, is that a stay sewn into the side of the collar in Dress 3 05? It looks like a stiffener of some kind. Folded cotton, stitched down? Good idea; I found on my collar that the lace rather weighed it down and made it sag a bit. Never thought of a fabric stay at the sides, though!

Dress 4 looks hot to wear. At least, it certainly seems to have been sweated in a bit around the armpits! My Mum (who was born in 1939) told me that dresses used to have something like a shoulder pad (the thin ones) loosely stitched to the inside of the underarm area to absorb the sweat; you'd then cut it loose, wash it, and then stitch it back in. Or wash the lot together, I don't really remember. Probably wash the lot together. In any case, it was there to absorb the sweat, in pre-anti-perspirant days.

I am halfway through a pair of pantaloons; if you would be so obliging as to post some pics  on the attachment of the legs to the waistband at the midline, front and back, I would be most grateful!

Thank you very much for doing this! You have a wonderful collection. I would like to get a few period pieces myself but despite how terrible an idea it would probably be I'm not sure I could resist wearing them about, ha ha.

I must say, it's very strange to see how "unfinished" the insides are, isn't it? Especially in the rather more coat-like tops. Very strange to modern eyes, used to seeing every seam either rolled or Serged, isn't it? And an interesting contrast to how very polished the exteriors are. Suddenly I don't feel so bad about the raw, exposed seams on the inside of my little daughter's dress. it's period! *Grin*

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"Be clean and courteous; raise your hat, And wipe your boots upon the mat: Such proofs of gentlemanly feeling Are to the ladies most appealing." The Professor's Manuscript - Dorothy L. Sayers
Attlebridge
Deck Hand
*
Canada Canada


Lady Lianna U. Nulls


« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2012, 04:31:45 pm »

Kryss LaBryn,

1) It is inset box pleats in the back. On the exterior, the pleats are combined from the several back panels; the lining is one long rectangle, with a small separate anchor to keep them in place.

2) That's cased boning.

3) Yes, it is.

4) Pantaloons in several styles will be uploaded soon.
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Kryss LaBryn
Zeppelin Captain
*****
Canada Canada


aka Lady Amelia Cottington


« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2012, 05:51:25 pm »

Oookay, so that square thing we can see on the inside is just an additional flap the pleats are stitched to (I guess in the creases)? That makes sense now! I'm not sure if I'll need to do that myself as my pleats are going to be much longer, but if they don't stay in place then I will do that myself.

Yay for pantaloon pics! Smiley
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Attlebridge
Deck Hand
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Canada Canada


Lady Lianna U. Nulls


« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2012, 04:38:33 pm »

I have added several different styles of pantaloons and one bustle sample.
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Kryss LaBryn
Zeppelin Captain
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Canada Canada


aka Lady Amelia Cottington


« Reply #12 on: April 03, 2012, 03:22:53 am »

Fantastic! Thanks for the heads up!

EDITED TO ADD: So, in Pantaloons 4, that flap is in the rear, right? I mean, I can't see how else it would work; it just seems odd to see the centred buttons and ties for the waistband in the centre rear instead of the centre front. No way a lady could make any use of a front flap, though!  Cheesy
« Last Edit: April 03, 2012, 03:33:35 am by Kryss LaBryn » Logged
LadyAsprin
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Sabreuse.


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« Reply #13 on: April 03, 2012, 03:30:03 am »

They are great pictures.
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Attlebridge
Deck Hand
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Canada Canada


Lady Lianna U. Nulls


« Reply #14 on: April 03, 2012, 04:13:37 pm »

So, in Pantaloons 4, that flap is in the rear, right? I mean, I can't see how else it would work; it just seems odd to see the centred buttons and ties for the waistband in the centre rear instead of the centre front. No way a lady could make any use of a front flap, though!  Cheesy

Correct; the flap is in the rear. Wink

I'm assuming the ties are in the back for comfort rather than convenience. A corset dips further in the front than the back, and if the buttons and ties were in the front, there would be uncomfortable pressure points on the belly all day.
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Kryss LaBryn
Zeppelin Captain
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Canada Canada


aka Lady Amelia Cottington


« Reply #15 on: April 03, 2012, 07:40:08 pm »

Ah, of course!!

I know one needs the flap/slit because of course with the corset on one can't simply pull one's underpants up and down (especially pre-elastic & hip huggers Smiley ) but I really ought to have clued in about the comfort thing, ha ha.
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